Source: Lotus West
Date: 1974
LW# 00MC073

There was an article a couple of months ago about installing a day/night mirror from a Porsche. A cheaper and more readily available D/N mirror is the one made for Vega or Pinto. Both mount on the same metal pad. This pad should be affixed to the windscreen with Locktite Minute Bonder, a two-step adhesive system which seems to be the only one which will not yield to the bumps of a Lotus. I learned of Minute Bonder from a glass shop after trying about three other types of glue. I have had no trouble since installing the mirror this way about 6 months ago. Pinto part no. DODZ-17700-A for mirror, C9AZ-17698-A for bracket.

Herb Berkwits

If your car has been subjected to severe bump stresses, check the inboard lower corner of the fiberglass structure supporting the radiator for cracks. To close the gap, the structure under the radiator can be blocked and gently jacked before fiberglass repair is made.

Bleeding Brake Lines by Yourself -- Often a helper is unavailable to pump the pedal while you loosen and tighten the bleed screws. A method exists that will allow you to bleed hydraulic lines by yourself: First, fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid. Pump the pedal several times yourself. This introduces fluid into the lines, forcing trapped air to their extremities. Next, attach some clear plastic tubing tightly over each bleed screw, immersing the other end of the tube in a small container of fluid. (Old brake fluid will do.) Now crack each bleed screw open until a trickle of fluid enters the tubing. Do this to each screw and leave them open for some time, periodically checking the reservoir fluid level. If the procedure is done properly, air bubbles will migrate to the open valve and you should see bubbles coming out after you crack open the screw. When you think that all bubbles have been removed from the lines, close each screw while the tubing is still attached and immersed in fluid. Then test the pedal for hardness and repeat if necessary.

As an alternative to the Chevy alternator swap, a Pinto alternator was found to be excellent. The standard Pinto bottom mount was used. Remember, the block is the same as the twin cam, with minor exceptions. The top mount was taken off the rear of the timing chest with a homebread bracket which is rubber mounted to the top of the alternator. To put this alternative in perspective: the price is probably the same in a junkyard. The retail new, price at about $40. The Pinto puts out 55 amps compared to the Chevies 35; probably insignificant unless one is running super Oscars. Lastly, the Pinto alternator installation is quite a bit more stable. Vibration is less and then the brackets are less subject to failure.


John Kouba

For those of us who still get confused between oversteer and understeer, here is a reprint from Pit Stop, Charleston Region S.C.C.A. which was reprinted from Racket, which will set us straight (I hope).

Understeer -

If your car "plows" too much, or if the front end, feels as though it is sliding out from under you, add "oversteer".
Oversteer -

If the tail end of your car feels loose (hangs out) or tries to break away too early, add "understeer”.
Chassis Feature		For More Oversteer		For More Understeer
Front tire pressure		higher				lower
Rear tire pressure		lower				higher
Front tire section		larger				smaller
Rear tire section		narrower			wider
Front wheel camber		more negative			more positive
Rear wheel camber		more positive			more negative
Front springs			softer				stiffer
Rear springs			stiffer				softer
Front anti-roll bars		thinner				thicker
Rear anti-roll bars		thicker				thinner		
Front roll center		lower				higher
Front track			wider				narrower
Rear track			narrower			wider
Weight distribution		more rearward			more forward
Rear deck spoiler		lower				higher