Source: Lotus West
Title: 1974 LOTUS CLINIC ANNUAL
BODY & INTERIOR
There was an article a couple of months ago about installing a day/night mirror from a Porsche. A cheaper and more readily available D/N mirror is the one made for Vega or Pinto. Both mount on the same metal pad. This pad should be affixed to the windscreen with Locktite Minute Bonder, a two-step adhesive system which seems to be the only one which will not yield to the bumps of a Lotus. I learned of Minute Bonder from a glass shop after trying about three other types of glue. I have had no trouble since installing the mirror this way about 6 months ago. Pinto part no. DODZ-17700-A for mirror, C9AZ-17698-A for bracket.
If your car has been subjected to severe bump stresses, check the inboard lower corner of the fiberglass structure supporting the radiator for cracks. To close the gap, the structure under the radiator can be blocked and gently jacked before fiberglass repair is made.
Bleeding Brake Lines by Yourself -- Often a helper is unavailable to pump the pedal while you loosen and tighten the bleed screws. A method exists that will allow you to bleed hydraulic lines by yourself: First, fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid. Pump the pedal several times yourself. This introduces fluid into the lines, forcing trapped air to their extremities. Next, attach some clear plastic tubing tightly over each bleed screw, immersing the other end of the tube in a small container of fluid. (Old brake fluid will do.) Now crack each bleed screw open until a trickle of fluid enters the tubing. Do this to each screw and leave them open for some time, periodically checking the reservoir fluid level. If the procedure is done properly, air bubbles will migrate to the open valve and you should see bubbles coming out after you crack open the screw. When you think that all bubbles have been removed from the lines, close each screw while the tubing is still attached and immersed in fluid. Then test the pedal for hardness and repeat if necessary.
As an alternative to the Chevy alternator swap, a Pinto alternator was found to be excellent. The standard Pinto bottom mount was used. Remember, the block is the same as the twin cam, with minor exceptions. The top mount was taken off the rear of the timing chest with a homebread bracket which is rubber mounted to the top of the alternator. To put this alternative in perspective: the price is probably the same in a junkyard. The retail new, price at about $40. The Pinto puts out 55 amps compared to the Chevies 35; probably insignificant unless one is running super Oscars. Lastly, the Pinto alternator installation is quite a bit more stable. Vibration is less and then the brackets are less subject to failure.
For those of us who still get confused between oversteer and understeer, here is a reprint from Pit Stop, Charleston Region S.C.C.A. which was reprinted from Racket, which will set us straight (I hope).
If your car "plows" too much, or if the front end, feels as though it is sliding out from under you, add "oversteer".
If the tail end of your car feels loose (hangs out) or tries to break away too early, add "understeer”.
Chassis Feature For More Oversteer For More Understeer Front tire pressure higher lower Rear tire pressure lower higher Front tire section larger smaller Rear tire section narrower wider Front wheel camber more negative more positive Rear wheel camber more positive more negative Front springs softer stiffer Rear springs stiffer softer Front anti-roll bars thinner thicker Rear anti-roll bars thicker thinner Front roll center lower higher Front track wider narrower Rear track narrower wider Weight distribution more rearward more forward Rear deck spoiler lower higher