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The 5th gear problem is usually wear in the linkage. Begin looking at the front where there are nylon bushings at the bottom end of the shift lever held by a shoulder bolt. Then there are 2 universals that can be loose and the attachment to the shift control shaft at the back of the transaxle which is held by a roll pin (from the factory but many have had a bolt inserted) can be loose as well. Then there is the threaded part of the middle universal which is also held in place by roll pins that wear the holes out and cause slop. And there is also a spherical rod end that is glued (really) to the middle joint with Loctite. This was a cheap (what else) piece and wears out. If you replace it use a high quality rod end. The fixes for all of these problems are: Replace the shift lever bushings and yes you can remove the shift linkage without removing the engine (you may have to break your elbow so it works the other way). There are also a couple of mods by list members to re-engineer this point in the linkage. Replace the middle spherical rod end with a good one and be sure to use a good grade of Loctite and be sure everything is operating room clean when you glue the parts. Rebuild the middle universal. The needle bearings are available from Don Tingle. The cross pieces are 3/8" dowel pins. One goes through and the other is split into 2 short pieces. The trick is to figure which one goes through so you can press it out. Sometimes you can grind a small hole in the bearing cap, insert a screw or a hook and pop the cap off. They aren't held in very tightly. The roll pins are a problem and I think a very bad idea. I used a couple of high quality - grade 5 - jam nuts and got rid of the pins. Tightening the jam nuts is easier if you machine or file a couple of flats on the linkage, just at the end where the joint attaches, so you can hold it still with a wrench. The rear universal is the same story as the middle except no roll pins. The attachment to the rear shift control shaft is best done by using a 1/4" bolt (AN of the appropriate shaft length if possible) in place of the roll pin. You must also saw a slot on the side of the joint where the bolt goes through so that when the bolt is tightened it will pinch the joint attachment and firmly hold the shaft. Then you must machine a flat on the angled surface so that the head of the bolt can sit squarely on it. When you adjust the linkage, set the length first by putting the shift lever about straight up and the trans in neutral. Length adjustment is made by turning the middle joint (it's left and right hand threads so you don't have to disassemble). When the length is ok, put the trans axle into first by rotating the control shaft at the trans to the left until it hits the detent and pull out. Set the shift lever where you want 1st gear - slightly to the left of center. Now tighten up the jam nuts VERY TIGHT. Try the linkage and see if it is comfortable and gets all of the gears. If not, loosen one of the jam nuts and adjust as required. When you are through tighten the jam nuts twice to be sure. That's all there is to it. Geez! Ask a simple question.... Regards, John White '73 TCS 2768R --- In lotuseuropa@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Green" <iangreen@t...> wrote: > So, I found a new temp sender an screwed it it tonight. Hey, Presto, my temp > gauge works. Bit high though, gauge reads 100, sticker reads 90. > > Now a new-old problem.... > If I wait for the Otter switch to kick in, a fuse blows, (same one as the > turn signals). If I hit the over-ride switch, the fuse is okay though. Bit > weird. Guess, I've got to check the wiring. But does this ring a bell with > anybody? > > Also, finding fifth gear is next to impossible. > > Ian Green > TCS 3115R |