From: JMWhite99@a...
Date: Wed Sep 24, 2003 3:39pm
Subject: Re: Otter switch, 5th gear - LONG
The 5th gear problem is usually wear in the linkage. Begin looking
at the front where there are nylon bushings at the bottom end of the
shift lever held by a shoulder bolt. Then there are 2 universals
that can be loose and the attachment to the shift control shaft at
the back of the transaxle which is held by a roll pin (from the
factory but many have had a bolt inserted) can be loose as well.
Then there is the threaded part of the middle universal which is also
held in place by roll pins that wear the holes out and cause slop.
And there is also a spherical rod end that is glued (really) to the
middle joint with Loctite. This was a cheap (what else) piece and
wears out. If you replace it use a high quality rod end. The fixes
for all of these problems are:

Replace the shift lever bushings and yes you can remove the shift
linkage without removing the engine (you may have to break your elbow
so it works the other way). There are also a couple of mods by list
members to re-engineer this point in the linkage.

Replace the middle spherical rod end with a good one and be sure to
use a good grade of Loctite and be sure everything is operating room
clean when you glue the parts.

Rebuild the middle universal. The needle bearings are available from
Don Tingle. The cross pieces are 3/8" dowel pins. One goes through
and the other is split into 2 short pieces. The trick is to figure
which one goes through so you can press it out. Sometimes you can
grind a small hole in the bearing cap, insert a screw or a hook and
pop the cap off. They aren't held in very tightly. The roll pins
are a problem and I think a very bad idea. I used a couple of high
quality - grade 5 - jam nuts and got rid of the pins. Tightening the
jam nuts is easier if you machine or file a couple of flats on the
linkage, just at the end where the joint attaches, so you can hold it
still with a wrench.

The rear universal is the same story as the middle except no roll

The attachment to the rear shift control shaft is best done by using
a 1/4" bolt (AN of the appropriate shaft length if possible) in place
of the roll pin. You must also saw a slot on the side of the joint
where the bolt goes through so that when the bolt is tightened it
will pinch the joint attachment and firmly hold the shaft. Then you
must machine a flat on the angled surface so that the head of the
bolt can sit squarely on it.

When you adjust the linkage, set the length first by putting the
shift lever about straight up and the trans in neutral. Length
adjustment is made by turning the middle joint (it's left and right
hand threads so you don't have to disassemble). When the length is
ok, put the trans axle into first by rotating the control shaft at
the trans to the left until it hits the detent and pull out. Set the
shift lever where you want 1st gear - slightly to the left of
center. Now tighten up the jam nuts VERY TIGHT. Try the linkage and
see if it is comfortable and gets all of the gears. If not, loosen
one of the jam nuts and adjust as required. When you are through
tighten the jam nuts twice to be sure. That's all there is to it.

Geez! Ask a simple question....


John White
'73 TCS 2768R

--- In, "Ian Green" <iangreen@t...> wrote:
> So, I found a new temp sender an screwed it it tonight. Hey,
Presto, my temp
> gauge works. Bit high though, gauge reads 100, sticker reads 90.
> Now a new-old problem....
> If I wait for the Otter switch to kick in, a fuse blows, (same one
as the
> turn signals). If I hit the over-ride switch, the fuse is okay
though. Bit
> weird. Guess, I've got to check the wiring. But does this ring a
bell with
> anybody?
> Also, finding fifth gear is next to impossible.
> Ian Green
> TCS 3115R